LDR Industries 503 1100 lodveida vārsts, 13,2 x 4,4 x 1,5 collas, misiņš

Brand:LDR Industries

3.4/5

62.91

PRODUKTA APRAKSTS LDR 503 1100 Ballcock vārsts un korpuss, misiņš. Lieta misiņa lodīšu vārstam un korpusam ir vara stāvvada caurule, un pozitīvā blīvējuma izslēgšana nodrošina vienmērīgu klusu piepildīšanu. Bez noplūdes Pozitīvā blīvējuma izslēgšana nodrošina ilgu kalpošanas laiku un uzticamu apkalpošanu. Iekļauts misiņa pludiņa stienis un elastīga uzpildes caurule. NO RAŽOTĀJA LDR 503 1100 Ballcock vārsts un korpuss, misiņš. Lieta misiņa lodīšu vārstam un korpusam ir vara stāvvada caurule, un pozitīvā blīvējuma izslēgšana nodrošina vienmērīgu klusu piepildīšanu. Bez noplūdes Pozitīvā blīvējuma izslēgšana nodrošina ilgu kalpošanas laiku un uzticamu apkalpošanu. Iekļauts misiņa pludiņa stienis un elastīga uzpildes caurule.

Nav pieejama neviena vienība
Ierobežots kalpošanas laiks. Pozitīvā blīvējuma izslēgšana. Vara stāvvada caurule. Vārsts un korpuss.
Batteries Included? ‎No
Batteries Required? ‎No
Brand LDR Industries
Color Brass
Color ‎Brass
Country of Origin ‎China
Customer Reviews 4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 91 ratings 4.3 out of 5 stars
Domestic Shipping Item can be shipped within U.S.
International Shipping This item can be shipped to select countries outside of the U.S. Learn More
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‎No
Item Dimensions LxWxH 13.2 x 4.4 x 1.5 inches
Item model number ‎503 1100
Item Package Quantity ‎1
Item Weight 1.15 Pounds
Item Weight ‎1.15 pounds
Manufacturer ‎LDR
Material Cast Brass
Material ‎Cast Brass
Part Number ‎503 1100
Power Source ‎No
Product Dimensions ‎13.2 x 4.4 x 1.5 inches
Size ‎13.2 x 4.4 x 1.5 inches
Warranty Description ‎Limited Lifetime Warranty

3.4

5 Review
5 Star
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4 Star
16
3 Star
4
2 Star
4
1 Star
7

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Scritto da: Daguscahonda
Gentle on your pipes
My house is almost 100 years old. Having lived here for four years, I have noticed various attempts made by previous owners/tenants at improvements. The basement was finished by someone about 40 years or so ago. Someone built a large wood burning fireplace about 30 years ago according to a neighbor who told me some of the history of the house. They re-did the living room and the upstairs bathroom. Some of the improvements appear to be solid while others are questionable in quality. A thing that troubles me is the plumbing. I worry about water getting loose in the house. Next to fire, water can be a most destructive force. It can ruin your floors, walls and ceilings and your stuff if it gets loose in the house. I have repaired numerous leaks in the basement and have installed water hammer arrestors on the washing machine to reduce the strain on the pipes when the washing machine supply solenoids snap closed. In the course of my repairs, I noticed that someone had installed PVC supply pipes to the upstairs bathroom. I guess that PVC is as good as copper but it still worried me when someone would use the upstairs bathroom. I would cringe when I heard those PVC pipes in the living room wall shake and rattle when the toilet tank valve would close. It wasn’t so bad with the original plastic valve but when that failed, I had to install a replacement. I went to the hardware store, bought what appeared to be a good valve replacement - it was plastic. It stayed wide open while the toilet tank filled and then it would snap closed causing serious rattling of the pipes. I went to the store again, bought a different valve – again plastic - that I thought would close more gently. It closed gradually to about half closed but then snapped closed at the final stage. I began standing at the bathroom sink with the cold-water faucet partially open so as to reduce the shock on the pipes when the toilet valve snapped closed. I thought about when I was younger when there were brass valves in the toilets that I had to repair for one reason or another. I didn’t remember any water hammer with them. After checking at the hardware store and getting a blank stare when I asked for a brass valve, I checked Amazon where I found two types available. I ordered one. The brass valve arrived with a compression type supply fitting and a brass nut that secures the valve to the tank. I would need a wrench to tighten the brass securing nut and the supply nut. I checked with a standard supply hose that I had and found that the plastic fitting on the standard sized supply hose would fit the brass valve – so no need for the compression fitting. So, if the standard supply hose would fit the brass valve then a standard plastic hand-tighten type nut that attaches the valve to the toilet tank would also fit. Using a wrench on a porcelain toilet tank can sometimes lead to a cracked tank and can also cause serious vexation at trying to get a big clumsy crescent wrench on the thin nut when you cannot get your head down low enough to see anything. Since I now had three plastic valves in the garage, I used a plastic nut from one of them to secure the brass valve to the tank. I hand tightened (no wrench or pliers needed) the mounting nut and the supply nut, turned the water on, checked for leaks and found none – on to the next step. The only way to adjust water level with a brass valve is to bend the float rod. It would seem that if I attached the float to one end of the float rod and screwed the other end into the valve then I could bend the rod enough to close the valve at the correct water level. Looking at the construction of the brass valve, I considered that even if I held my mouth just right and was extra careful with using both hands while bending the rod, I might put enough force on the cast brass valve fittings to break something. I allowed the tank to fill to the correct level and then closed the valve by lifting the float above the water. I estimated the amount of bend that it would take to close the valve with the float in the water. With that estimate, I removed the float rod from the valve and bent it. After installing the bent rod back into the valve and screwing the float on, I tested the operation. I removed the rod again and made another adjustment so that the valve closed when the water reached the correct level in the tank. If I had been careful enough to tighten the rod into the valve and then mark the rod - before I made the bend - so that when I made the bend and then screwed the rod back into the valve, it would be tight and the float would be centered in the tank, that would be the end to the installation but the rod was not tight and the float could rotate and hit the side of the tank. I went to the hardware store, bought a ¼-20 brass nut. I removed the float rod, screwed the nut on the valve end of the rod and reinstalled the rod. With the rod bent, I could not screw it into the valve lever with the float attached so the float would have to be installed later. After tightening the rod as far as possible, I adjusted it so that the float would be centered in the tank and lightly tightened the brass lock nut on the float rod against the valve lever. I installed the float and made a final adjustment so that it was centered. With the float centered, I held the valve lever with pliers and used a wrench to tighten the ¼-20 brass nut against the valve lever and so doing locked the float rod so that the float was centered in the tank. The brass valve closes gently, there is no water hammer and now I am less worried at the shoddy installation of pipes in my living room wall and ceiling.
Scritto da: Yancy Young
Initially, this seems to be a substantial product
For some reason my house water is especially hard on toilet valves. I have been through 4 plastic toilet valves in the last 2 years. Mostly they have been various models of Fluidmaster, hoping that the next model up would be the one that would work for a length of time. The last one lasted just 6 weeks, causing water hammer (knocking) in the pipes, and eventually the top valve not shutting off. Initially inexpensive, but you get what you pay for in the long run. I decided to go back old school with this LDR brass model. There was fast delivery by LDR. The product itself is all brass construction, substantial, simple design. Installation was fairly straight forward. I did use the rubber tank seal washer from the previous plastic valve, and the outer plastic hand tighten nut. You do need to purchase the plastic "ball" float ($6-7) at your local hardware store, and bend the supplied ball control arm to correct the water filling height inside the tank. The suggestion listed here of using 1/4-20 brass nuts on both ends of the arm to lock the control arm in the down position after bending was a good one. Initially, this seems to be a product that does it job well. Love the slow cutoff of the valve as the tank fills, which means no water hammer (knocking). I'm getting a complete valve cutoff with no leaking. With my house's water profile I'd like to keep a supply of O-rings handy, but cannot find a parts list, or size for the internal replacement components. I've emailed LDR for more information. I'll update this review when/if it happens
Scritto da: Stikaeric
Top Quality
Very good quality and better than plastic toilet parts. It will last for years and years.
Scritto da: Paul Doland
Works fine but mixed results for my application.
I've been a homeowner for 30 years and never used a ballcock. I thought they were obsolete, didn't even understand why home improvement stores still sold them, albeit plastic ones. So this is my first experience with a ballcock. I got a brand new toilet recently, water efficient. And the new ones are better than the original water efficient ones. Even so, you wish the flush could have a bit more water. I bought from Amazon NUFLUSH extension tubes, which make the fill tube higher so you can put more water in the tank. But, the modern style fill valves adjusted to max leave like 4" from the top. Well, Nuflush has a solution, a fill valve based on the weight of the weight of the water. Its cute, seems like a fantastic idea. But didn't work worth a crapper. So, I started looking at fill valve options, and the idea of an old fashioned ballcock intrigued! Maybe it could fill closer to the top of the tank. Though I thought the float itself might prevent that. But I also bought from Amazon a Kerick square float. That seemed like it was a more space efficient design for a float. So, I gave this a shot. While it basically works, here are a couple of things I didn't really like. Since it is solid metal, it isn't adjustable. The only way to adjust the water fill level is to bend the float rod. Also, the water comes on when the tank hasn't been really emptied, it comes on when the float has fallen a few inches. So, you want the float rod as long as possible that will fit in your tank. And to do a complete flush, you need to hold the lever down a few seconds while it is flushing. Maybe a plastic adjustable ballcock might suit all my requirements better. I don't know. By the way, it includes a float rod so you don't need to buy one. Amazon suggests you buy one and a float with this. But you only need the float not the rod. (Get the square one, this I totally do recommend if you do get a ballcock.) One other reviewer said the unit is "like American made". I wondered if he meant it really was American made. Nope, made in China. It comes with a plastic bushing that I thought was only for solid lines, not for flexible lines. I was wrong, you need to use the bushing for flexible lines too. Some user complained it never fully shuts off. I did not have that problem. It does fully shut off. But, the last little bit before full shut off, it trickles and takes a minute. The tank fills very quickly 95%. Then the last 5% trickles until final shutoff.
Scritto da: Puree my food
Good Old Style Reliable Valve
You get what you pay for, easy repair long lasting old style brass valve, very nice, in Australia it's impossible to buy these brass valves, most of our hardware stores sell Chinese knock off rubbish which fails quickly, cheap plastic garbage. This BRASS VALVE can easily be repaired as per the rubber seals, 1 x O-ring and 1 x flat piece of rubber, Cool.

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